by Ilan Bloch

Image courtesy of Wikipedia
I left the house and turned to B., a Palestinian from East Jerusalem who works as a cleaner for City Hall, wishing him a good morning, and asking in my badly accented Arabic how he was. I understood and accepted his response “How can it be a good morning?! What can possibly be good?!” With sixteen dead Gazan children, and hundreds of injured Palestinian civilians over the three-day “Operation Breaking Dawn,” how could he respond otherwise? Would I be anything but depressed if that number of Diaspora Jews had been killed over the course of a single weekend, regardless of the circumstances? B. has been a staple in my life in recent times — he has seen my twins grow up over the years as I took them to pre-school and then kindergarten; he commiserated with me over my unemployment status during the COVID pandemic and encouraged me that, inshallah, things would improve, and he encourages me when I try and get back to my exercise regime, doing my best to run through the neighborhood. I feel his pain and that of his people.
Later in the day, I was guiding together with a Palestinian Christian tour guide. I mentioned that I had read an interesting article regarding the Muslim tombs at Jaffa Gate. The piece challenges the claim that the two people buried in the graves are the engineers of the Ottoman city walls from almost half a millennium ago and that they were murdered by Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent. Whether this was because they excluded Mt. Zion from the walls, in order to ensure that they would not share their skills or secrets with others, or even in order to “skip out on the bill,” the research paper argues that the claim is both not historically accurate and intentionally paints Muslims as brutal and cruel. She responded by exclaiming that, in fact, Muslims had indeed spread their religion throughout our region through brutality and cruelty! I never thought I would find myself on the other side of a discussion with a Palestinian in which I would be disagreeing with her over what I consider her prejudicial views (against Muslims!)
We also disagreed when she spoke of Israelis digging under Haram al-Sharif (the Sacred Esplanade) [the third holiest site in Islam and the holiest in Judaism, for which it is known as Har Habayit (the Temple Mount)] as part of a plan to collapse the Dome of the Rock and Al Aqsa Mosque and rebuild the Temple. I responded that this was an ongoing lie of the Palestinian leadership and that Israel has never dug under the Temple Mount. She mentioned the Kotel Tunnels and I made clear that the Tunnels do not involve any digging under the Temple Mount and run along the Western Wall and not within the Mount itself. I made clear that this lie of the Palestinian national movement (repeated during the 1920s and 1930s, and again when Israel embarked on an archeological salvage dig next to the Mughrabi Gate in 2006) has cost the Jewish people in the Land of Israel in blood. In fact, the only official body which has done any digging under the Temple Mount is the waqf (Islamic religious trust)! In 2000, in order to open an emergency exit for the Marwani Mosque (in an area also known as Solomon’s Stables), the waqf used heavy machinery and worked without archeological supervision. Was it really a coincidence that a bulge developed on the southern side of the Temple Mount just a few years later?! We can disagree about narratives and we can read history differently, but we cannot allow “alternative facts!”
After the tour, a Palestinian shopkeeper in the Christian Quarter heard me talking with some of my charges and he said that there would never be peace because Israel only understands the language of force, and that there was no Jewish Temple on the Temple Mount. I explained that there will never be peace without respecting one another’s narratives and religions. He told me that he respects Judaism. I replied that denying the existence of the Temple on the Temple Mount is as offensive as if he were to tell me that Shabbat, kashrut or tefilah (prayer) are false. I am happy to go a long way in my views of the Palestinian narrative — even to respect (but not believe in) the Palestinian claim that they are the descendants of the Jebusites. But, to deny the existence of the Jewish Temple on the Temple Mount is not a view that can help lead us toward peace or coexistence. It is not simply an attack against Zionism; it is an attack against Judaism.
It was a complicated day in a complicated city. May the city live up to its name and its potential and be a city of peace.
Ilan Bloch is a licensed Israel tour guide.